Institute News
Uganda – August 20, 2008
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I woke up this morning and tried to imagine what it would be like to touch and interact with a chimpanzee without any bars or barriers between us. Today I was going to find out. My husband Mark and I had stayed overnight at the Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary to participate in a forest walk with a few of the juvenile chimpanzees that live on the island. At 6:45 that morning we met Bruce and Stany, the caregivers who would lead us on the forest walk. The nine juvenile chimpanzees that were selected to go on the walk were already lined up and waiting for us in a long cage that allows the chimps to move between the forest and the overnight holding cages. I was immediately struck by the size of the juvenile chimpanzees, they were larger than I had imagined. After the chimps were released to join us, I sat down next to Yoyo who was delicately picking her nose. The first thing I noticed was that her hair was very thick, coarse and black but sparse enough so that I could see her skin between the hairs. |
Dr. Fred, the island veterinarian, had already told us about Bili, a large female who carefully evaluates and selects the larger (usually male) visitors to carry her hefty 70 lbs into the forest. Bili wisely selected Mark to carry her into the forest while the caregivers picked Nakuu, a smaller female, for me. Stany helped me swing Nakuu around my back so that I could carry her piggyback style. As we walked into the forest, Nakuu began to feel heavy and with every step it occurred to me that I had never asked just how far we would have to walk. Fortunately it wasn’t long before we came to a log where we would sit and interact with the chimps. The caregivers showed us how to tickle the chimps by firmly pinching the shoulder at the neck. It took a few attempts to develop the technique. At first we were too gentle, touching the chimps softly like we would a human child. You know when you’re doing it right because the chimp will scrunch up her shoulders and if you’re persistent, you’ll get to hear that wonderful breathy chimp laughter. I sat down next to Yoyo and found her to be very gentle but extremely strong. At one point, in an attempt to prevent me from tickling her, she had restrained both of my hands and also had a hold of my ponytail. Yoyo had the unfair advantage of being able to use both of her hands and feet, while I had to ask Stany for assistance to get me out of that predicament!
As we were sitting, Bili came over to undo my shoe laces and rethread them in her own unique style. It was amazing to watch the dexterity of her fingers as she manipulated the laces and forced them through the eyelets. Not long after that, Ikuru came over and began to groom me. She brushed my face with her fingers, picked at a small scar on my hand and brushed my hair to the other side of my head while making soft lip smacking noises. She also skillfully cleaned under my finger nails by running her thick black thumbnail under mine. Unfortunately by the time I was settled in with the chimps, the hour was over. When the caregivers told us that it was time to go back, Bili understood and immediately sat down next to Mark on the log, placing her arm around his shoulders. Mark then put his arm around Bili and they stayed like that for a few moments, looking like two best friends. After we exited the forest area, the chimps from the overnight holding cages were released and we watched from the viewing platform until it became impossible for us to tell the juveniles apart from the other chimpanzees.
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After the forest walk, Mark and I decided to visit Mac and Afrika, two baby chimps waiting to be integrated into the main group. As we stood in front of the enclosure, Dr. Fred came by and asked us if we wanted to go inside. The answer to that question was an immediate and definitive YES. After we entered the enclosure, Mac immediately climbed down into my arms. It was one of the most perfect moments I had ever experienced. After one year of planning and the many vaccinations required to take part in a forest walk with the chimpanzees of Ngamba Island, I was holding Mac, a baby chimpanzee. He was the perfect ambassador, a kind and gentle chimpanzee with beautiful large brown eyes and a great sense of fun. At the same time as I was enjoying the most perfect moment of my life, I saw Mark out of the corner of my eye, getting playfully clobbered by Afrika who was a little more rambunctious. |
It was interesting to note that she was much more gentle in her interactions with me than she was with Mark, although I too was playfully thumped by the mischievous Afrika. Mark and I had a fantastic time playing with the baby chimpanzees; tickling them until they laughed, swinging them around the enclosure and hanging them upside down. The privilege of our experience was overwhelming. By staying overnight on the island we had the opportunity to connect with the caregivers and staff, in addition to interacting with the chimpanzees. Later, when Mark and I were on the boat that would take us back to Entebbe, we sat facing the island so that we could reflect on our experience and watch Ngamba Island disappear in the distance. We were thrilled with our visit, it was the highlight of our trip to Uganda and the most extraordinary animal encounter we have ever had.
Rubene Mahoney, Jane's Peak Society Member
